Paris
Cruesli au chocolat
UPDATE Spring 2011: I still haven't found a source for the real thing, but I found a close second. A friend in Germany sent me some "Vitalis Knusper" cereal, Dr. Oetker brand. It tastes great! And it's easier to find online. The best is the "Double Chocolate" version he sent me, but I haven't found it online yet. I just ordered 4 boxes of the regular version from Euro Food Mart. The boxes are small -- maybe 4 or 5 bowls -- and the shipping is pricey, but I'll take what I can get. It's also available (for a higher price) at Germandeli.com. The regular version (not double chocolate) isn't an exact match for taste, but it may help with withdrawal symptoms. If anyone finds a place with the double chocolate version, let me know in the comments.
Warning: do not get the Vitalis cereal called simply "Schoko Musli". It tastes like dirt. I spent $40 on a few boxes before realizing my horrible mistake. Fortunately, it's pretty good added to no-bake cookies, so it wasn't a total loss.
Original entry (2008):
The best breakfast cereal in the world is Chocolate Cruesli.
The slogan in French is "le plaisir croustillant", which is roughly
Ooh la la!
July 2008. The Eiffel Tower was illuminated in blue to celebrate the French presidency of the EU. This was taken from atop the Arc de Triomphe. You can hear everyone gasp as the lights come on. The photos at the end were taken from Trocadero a couple of nights earlier.
Music in Paris
Street performers in Les Halles area of Paris, July 2008. The song is catchy. The police made them leave right after this performance. Can anyone name that tune?
Pere Lachaise
When I go to a restaurant, there's a 95% chance that I will order the same thing I ordered last time. And when I went to Paris a couple of months ago at the end of a business trip, the things I wanted to do most were repeats of what I did 15 years ago.
July 20, 2008, was my last day in Paris - I went to church in my old ward, Paris-Lilas. I regretted that I hadn't made it to Versailles or Pere Lachaise, the latter being a large cemetery filled with the famous (and not-so-famous) dead. I decided I could afford a speed tour after church and before my 4pm flight. I had already checked out of the hotel, so I had my luggage with me. Bad idea on cobblestone. I eventually abandoned my suitcase and hid it behind a gravestone.
I scurried to the site of Chopin's grave, snapped a couple of photos, and then followed the crowd to what must be the top attraction at Pere Lachaise: Jim Morrison's grave. It's a boring one (as graves go), but you somehow feel you have to make a stop.
On the way back to my suitcase, I passed this headstone that caught my eye. Valerio was his name and he died in 1988. The text says,
Il aimait Stendhal, Pavarotti, Gamine, les Pink Floyd
Mais à 29 ans. . .
But at the age of 29. . .
Stendhal - I looked it up - was the pen name of a French author. And I know Pavarotti and Pink Floyd. "Gamine" is the feminine form of urchin or waif, a mischievous kid, but I'm not sure who it refers to. Wikipedia says it might be Audrey Hepburn but could be several others - or maybe a pet name for his girlfriend.
In any case, I had just run past hundreds of graves with nary a thought of death and I suddenly found myself sad for the passing of this young man.
Have You Ever Seen the Rain?
It's been 15 years since I was a missionary in Paris. One of my favorite places to wander on a "preparation day" was the grounds of the Pompidou Center. It's a modern art museum that looks like a hamster cage with escalators in colored tubes climbing the sides of the building and overlooking a large square usually filled with musicians, performers, street hawkers, caricature artists, and the like. A few of us sang Christmas carols there once while our tone deaf companions handed out pamphlets.
Elder Mattoon and I were there on a particularly miserable day and came across a musician singing Creedence, Tracy Chapman, and The Beatles. We stayed and listened for a long time - because pagan tunes are not against the rules if you just hear them on the street. I can still hear his accent -- I wa-a-no ha-you-evah seeeeen the rain. When he moved on to Here Comes the Sun, I swear the sun broke through the clouds! (See some photos from that era, including a fire-breathing caveman who let you throw darts at his belly for 10 francs.)
Jump forward 15 years to last month. I passed through the Pompidou square trying desperately to find a grocery store that sold Chocolate Cruesli cereal. (I finally found some and bought six boxes to cram into my luggage. I have 2 1/2 left.) And there he was! Singing Tracy Chapman's Baby, Can I Hold You. His accent and guitar prowess hadn't improved a lick in 15 years, but it was still beautiful music to me.
Here he was 15 years ago -
Tour Eiffel
The Eiffel Tower had a bit of a makeover to celebrate France's six-month presidency of the European Union (starting June 30). I tried to get some slow-shutter photos to catch all the lights, but I didn't have a tripod so there's a bit of a blur. This one is from atop the Arc de Triomphe:
And another from Trocadero with a slower shutter:
It's coolest if you imagine some street performers off to your right dancing to the Jackson Five. I'll have to post some video later.
Gargouille "Le Rongeur"
I used to have a plaster model of this gargoyle from Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, but it fell down the stairs and shattered when I was clearing out my desk at the end of my Delta Air Lines career. Seems like that might have been an omen, but I haven't been able to make sense of it. I finally got to see the thing up close last month after waiting in a 2-hour line to climb the cathedral tower. (While in line, I was approached by half a dozen gypsy girls whose gimmick was to ask, "Speak English?" and if you nodded, they'd show you a note written in English asking for money.)
I hadn't noticed before that the gargoyle was female. In the plaster model, you can see the the little hands of whatever is being eaten - they're wrapped around the side of the larger creature's mouth in futile resistance to being consumed.


